The Yellow Brick Road-Oregon To Argentina Overland

These are digital photos from slides taken between 1990-1992 while I was traveling overland from Portland Oregon to the tip of South America.

Friday, June 15, 2012

Following the Yellow Brick Road- North to South 

Intro

I’m driving myself to the hospital as I’m certain I’m having an appendicitis attack.  This is certainly not something that you would want to having at sea of course.  If the appendix explodes, you will be dead for sure. I remember having this thought while undergoing a minor attack at sea while sailing back from Hawaii to Portland.




Today I’m relatively calm.  I’ve chosen the hospital for surgery based on its expansive views of the valley.  It’s highly unlikely that this event will turn out to be life threatening. I feel another wave of pain.  God, I’m glad that I’m headed to the hospital.  Duy will lock up the studio and I needn’t worry about anything else.  Certainly there is no need to alarm family with my circumstance until I’m certain what is going on.

Although it’s only a twenty-minute drive to the hospital, it seems more like hours.  I pass the time with random thoughts through bouts of pain and panic.  You are wise to listen to your body and get this diagnosed, never mind that you have a dance lesson in two hours.  Or I would ask myself questions-- If you were to die, how do you feel about your life?





Without hesitation, I telepathically respond that I’ve had a full, rich life and I’ve no regrets; and yet, out of no where comes an addendum, but if I survive this, something has got to change.   I literally turned around to see if there was someone in the back seat prodding me to reveal my current subliminal dissatisfaction with my all too perfect life.

It’s true that things have changed for me over the last 14 years as a glass artist. I had created an enviable life style.  I had creatively persevered at something that I enjoyed immensely. It was more like play. As I examined my unexpected response more closely, however, I saw that my unconscious dissatisfaction was rooted in my disconnection from community.


My studio was in my home. I worked there and slept there.  I had created a very comfortable environment for myself. I was happy with the solitude.  But things had changed.  I needed less and less to leave the studio.  I had less need to be with others, something that I hadn’t realized was an important ingredient to a balanced, happy life.

The fax and computer changed all that.  I could communicate my work with time saving tools. There was less need to have face-to-face time with the restaurant designers and architects who create the opportunities for my work.  Efficiency was reducing my personal connections and work relationships.   I realized that I longed for a deeper connection with others and with community. My private island had drifted off the charts.  I felt lost and knew that change was inevitable if I was ever going to be found.



I pulled up to the emergency door, now weaker and folded over from the shorter bursts of pain, and asked to see a doctor. With a chuckle I told the doctor that I was certain I wasn’t pregnant, but given my symptoms I wanted his observation of my increasingly frequent episodes of gut wrenching pain.  We took a blood test. The doctor concluded reluctantly that he probably should canceled his tennis match. And after marking the epicenter of my trauma with a red X, he rushed me into surgery dressed for the courts.

The game:  Doctor-1, Appendix-0.  I was under anesthesia for several hours of what was normally a simple operation.  He had diagnosed the location and the treatment correctly of my off-the-chart red blood cells.  There were only a couple of minor glitches, but he was destined to win.

When he cut on the X that marked the spot, he could not find my appendix.  He enlarged the opening and began piling my intestines outside of my body cavity on my stomach.  And there it was.  He found the appendix hiding out under my intestines.  It was indeed swollen.

As he removed it out of my stomach, the appendix exploded in his hands. If it had burst in my stomach, things would have been very complicated. Under certain conditions, it could have been fatal.  Thank goodness I was not on some seagoing adventure or on the beach of some third world country.  When I heard all this, I again contemplated, how short life is, how lucky I was, and I knew that something needed to change.

Out of the hospital after a few days, I told my two faithful, trustworthy employees, that I was going to close down the studio in one year.  They could take it over.  I would share my contacts. I would teach them how to run a business. I didn’t know what I was going to do, but I had a wake up call and I needed to answer the phone.

Prior to that phone call, for the preceding 7 years, I would spend 4 to 6 weeks during the Oregon winter in warm, sunny Central America.  I would catch a plane to Mexico City or the Yucatan or Guatemala City and travel overland through Guatemala, Belize, Honduras, El Savador, Nicaraqua, and fly home from Costa Rica.

The distances between Central American countries weren’t that great and in time I had my favorite beaches and villages to visit.  I always came home refreshed.  I was fully invigorated with the warmth and acceptance for a stranger stripped of all treasure, but my wit and sense of equality for all whom I encountered. No one knew anything about me.  Only how I was with them in the moment mattered.  We were all part of the same human community. I was invited to participate in family activity.  The family unit was solid.  I could even enjoy the young kids, something that was no longer an acceptable practice for a single man in America.

Cultural traditions and language differentiated us.  Height, skin color, and costume were also apparent, but they added to the vibrancy and challenge of acceptance.    I was no better than another.  Material possessions did not come between us.  You shared what you had.  I came with gifts of kindness, joy, and compassion. It was this sense of being a part of something greater than myself that was now drawing me to investigate the possibilities for living my life at a deeper level.  Yes, I had dragons to slay, fears that needed to be addressed.  These elemental life needs and personal obstacles would all be part of my upcoming journey to wherever I would choose to go. It would be the journey, not the destination that would rekindle my love of life and purpose.

I saw a documentary as a kid where 2 guys in a land rover traveled overland on the Pan American Highway through 15 nations. They would follow a connected highway system  from the extreme North to the extreme South of the Americas.  

They began in Alaska, along the Pacific Coast.   They traversed Canada.  They crossed the west coast of the United States.  They continued onward through Central America. After crossing the Darien Gap in Panama, a  100 mile stretch of undeveloped swampland and forest, they reached Colombia.  From there they reconnected with the Pan American Highway, traveling onward to the tip of South America. 

This was also a path used by the Spaniards in their unquenchable thirst for gold.  It would be the perfect route for me to follow on my personal journey.  It would become my yellow brick road.



I would travel overland between Portland, Oregon and Ushuaia, Argentine  and just beyond where the road system officially ends. There I would stand above the sea, surrounded by penguins, breathtaking granite formations comprising the first visible upwelling of the Andes, and marvel at the partially visible icebergs and glaciers of frozen tap water.

On my journey I would pass through every imaginable ecological zone and landscape. Though most places had their own language, I would communicate with secondary one’s, English or Spanish.  The cultural diversity would enliven and enrich me.  If there were common philosophical truths that bound these distinct communities, I would search for them.  I would confront my dragons and befriend them. I told myself that I could do this.  And I did.

The photos are by country.  I was shooting slides.  The slides were converted into digital images and although a tad contrasty with the shadows deepening and the highlights compressing, they convey a part of my story and the two years that I traveled.  They feel a part of another era. In fact twenty years have past since I last viewed them.

There are so many stories to tell.  Many of them are shared in the form of poems that I wrote.  I would take a thought or experience of the day and expand it into a snapshot of my adventure.  The photos are also full of memories and stories, many of which you can imagine by viewing them.

People often ask me how I afforded such a trip.  I literally saved my small change.  There was enough money in the Piggies to fly from Portland to Santiago, Chile.




I hope you enjoy traveling with me on this midlife adventure of life changing experiences. Though like Dorothy, I'll admit there is no place like home!















Photos of Central and South America-1990-1992


Each of the 11 photos below is the cover of a photo album. Double click on the link below the photo and it takes you to that album. If you are also interested in reading more about the trip, I've created captions under the photos.

#1 Album

#2 Album

#3 Album

#4 Album

#5 Album

#6 Album

#7 Album

#8 Album
#11 Album




I enjoy sharing my adventures and poems are another way of encapsulating an experience for others to enjoy. I try and focus on those unexpected moments, reactions, and interactions.  The result is less a documentary journal of hotels, fellow travelers,  places visited, and costs per day. 

Follow this link, Snapshots of Central America, and  you will find some of my poetry, self-published over 20 years ago. They mark a journey that I made South from Portland overland toward Panama. When I re-read them, I am hurled back in time to that special moment. Poems keep my yesterdays, fresh and vivid, like roses blooming on a crystal clear day.










Snapshots of Central America_2001-2002

SNAPSHOTS OF CENTRAL AMERICA_2001-2002



Intro
For thirty years I had fantasized about an overland trip from Oregon to the tip of South America.  I wanted to experience the distance and the geographic conditions that allowed so many unique cultures to evolve.  I wanted to do it inexpensively. I wanted to take my time. So with a lots of time and little money, I set out to fulfill my dream.


The adventure began immediately. First I closed down a successful art glass studio of 12 years and leased my house.  When I boarded the Green Tortoise, an alternative bus company, I had no idea where I was going except South and eventually Tierra del Fuego.

After 6 weeks on the Pacific beaches of Mexico, I crossed the border into Guatemala. An important goal for me was to learn Spanish in order to share with new friends. So I moved in with a family and took lessons 5 hours a day.  After 3 weeks, my language proficiency had increased substantially. I also began to realize that Central America would require at least 7 months, so I decided to only go as far as Panama.   My journey was not just about destinations, but how I would experience each day getting there.


I set out alone, but traveled 75% of the time with other travelers.  It was comforting as I felt that we were all part of another culture that transcended political borders.  I was a full participant in a community of spirited individuals with a global perspective. We shared rooms, food, personal philosophies, and new adventures.


The majority were from Europe, although a few were from the USA, Canada, Australia, Japan, Israel, and Argentina.  Sometimes we spoke only Spanish in order to communicate. It became our common language.  We drew strength from each other in our daily commitment to a non violent world and a healthy planet where all around us were hints of environmental tragedy and oppression. We moved through the Americas as observers and tried to leave nothing more than a footprint of our experiences and interactions behind.   


One aspect of my journey was spiritual. I had been feeling a strong need to reconnect with myself and community. The word, reconnect, is key and there were many doors which I unlocked.

Another aspect of my journey was a warrior's quest, discovering my dragons. I wanted to identify those attitudes and behavioral patterns that prevent me from living life fully. Initially my objective was to slay these dragons.  I realized in time, however, that what I really wanted was to understand them, to make them my friends, to redirect their energy. My effort has being paying dividends.

After a couple of months in the mountains of Guatemala, I journeyed to the Caribbean Islands off Honduras.  I camped on some with no food, electricity, or water.  They were just as beautiful as you are imagining this very moment. Yes, there were coconut trees and the jar of peanut butter, though not essential, connected me with home.

A trip by cargo boat and hiking took me up the Mosquito Coast to isolated Caribe villages only accessible by sea. We forded rivers, swam in sweet water lagoons, visited crocodile invested swamps, and lived almost everyday on rice and beans. The journey continued across Nicaragua and ended in Costa Rica, visiting its tropical parks and active volcanoes. Since it was the beginning of the rainy season, I decided Panama could wait. I traveled back to Oregon overland by bus, enjoying the spring, juicy mangoes, and my first solar eclipse.


I was home on time for Thanksgiving with family and friends, leaving a few days later. I flew directly to Chile for the best weather in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. The plan was to travel from the tip of South America overland mainly following the Pan American Highway System. Of course there were many distractions and detours along the way as I crisscrossed South America by hitchhiking, bus, and boat to Oregon.  It took me over a year to return to Portland.  


Why didn't I write a traditional journal?  As I mentioned,  my journals tend to become a record of where I stayed, what I paid, who I met, and so on. What I hoped to capture were those fleeting moments when I was fully present. If pictures are worth a thousand words, then perhaps poetic snapshots could help me visually remember those ordinary experiences that moved me deeply.  Because of this approach, I was able to be more openly playful, to share my most intimate fears and thoughts. For me this journal is successful.

I also wrote to share my journey with you.  Your reading is an adventure we can take together. I hope you enjoy my poems. And yes, I also compiled a second year of poems, covering my journey through South America. Unfortunately they are entombed on an early floppy, read only by my old Mac Plus purchased in 1986. One day I'll figure out how to resurrect them.


POEMS


MY ROOM
Morning light invades my sleep
defining noises of the dark
A fan whirls a swim suit flaps
my earthen room is warming
fresh fruit market treasures
capture my senses

A small space with banos
three times my concrete bed
positioned by the shower
the sink an easy reach
my knees pressed against the wall
my nose wet
the dampness
penetrates my being

Self-contained luxurious
white stained walls no decor
only Mexican revolutionaries
picturesque on horseback
guard the warrior as he sleeps

A baby’s cry begins its serenade
A chorus of clearing throats 
and foreign chatter ascend
the courtyard to my balcony

Only 1 block to the beach
purified water toilet paper free
I like my room
mas economica
and clean

MEANDERINGS





Walked picked up trucked
The sea air sings
palms caress with shade
waves sun themselves
I bake and burn 
a coke sign flaps noiselessly
local fuel warm Pepsi cools
a world of contrasts refreshing

Cliffs steep free of clinging trees
Water green blue tepid
The sand brown littered
 with yesterday and children
some beautiful
others mirror their poverty

Palapa colors invade the senses
orange and red bathe table tops
 chairs pink and blue stand poised
each indistinguishable visually rich
the same with boats
the same with clothes
the same with names
here continuity abounds

A gift the present
sitting writing seeing
time for friends
hours to share myself
prioritizing life treasures

And there above the sea
from thirty feet a pelican
free falls on unsuspecting fish
a young boy casts his net
a perfect circle a successful catch
seagulls glide preparing a distraction
like rain drops from the sky 
to claim a morsel missed
by pelicans and young boys
everyone enjoying Melaque Bay 

LEAVING 
Today I leave Melaque 
by 8 it's only a rumor 
 launched our panga 
carries us over opposing waves
to fish and dive these local waters 
5 elders escort me 
guiding my initiation
amidst small islands with cactus tops 

Today I am filled with spirit 
my body fluid like the sea 
today my world is peaceful 
there is always tomorrow 
for goodbyes and buses 
for leaving Melaque 

A JOURNEY NEVER ENDS 
Four days home 
why so sad melancholy
 this sunny day 
the ad is placed 
the house will rent 
I will journey soon 
to South America 
to meet new brothers 
and imagined places
yet I feel uneasiness
a disconnection unplugged

Sunday finds me at the center
new thought new age
meditative healing prose 
inspires me enriches me 
 to join the celebration
to embrace the community

I breathe deeply meditate
my tranquilizer muscles rejoice  
it's not tomorrow that I crave
 but this very moment
I'm enlivened applaud my awareness 
laughing at my momentary confusion
 a wrong turn a dead end road
I return to the junction
the adventure continue 

A MAN DRUGGED
The boy 
he sees a dog 
he throws his coconut 
he misses 
startling a crouching cat
waiting for the last shrimp 
pelicans spiralling 
splashing on swirling fish
following the coconut
to the water's edge
I wonder if it's ripe
how sweet it is
I look for other coconuts
I look at every woman 
with tasty interest 
a man drugged 
on sun and coke
 and three palapas
I am full I am sleepy
the coconut now beached
not another in sight
every woman still of interest
I head for the hammock 

LISTENING
Salty water 
pulsing up down 
rattling rocks my thoughts 
sailboats hover close 
beckoning 
for new adventures 
I sit in the shade 
a free park 
overcome with sleep 
listening 
for my response 
to midnight parties 
to a drunk Canadian 
to his fuck off 
while in shallow water 
4 divers interrupt 
their treasure
a tennis shoe 
will I do better 
the farther south I journey 

WATER BOILING 
Water boiling
pelicans alert young boys 
full speed running the beach 
to heave big nets at tiny fish 
Water boiling 
big fish unseen flap their tails 
stunning schooled children 
little ones caught in nets 
Water boiling 
the bait is cast lines secured 
hours of waiting yield to action 
Water boiling 
confused seas a daily display
where big fish herd little fish 
little fish tempt big fish 
young boys and pelicans 
share their cleverness 
mothers everywhere are proud
Water boiling 

SPANISH LESSON 
I wake early to study spanish 
first a walk the bowels need cleansing 
a good breakfast some conversation 
exercising daily I run the beach
stopping strangers indulging fishermen 

It's lunchtime a siesta under shady palms 
next a swim a shower helps to cool 
now too hot for books I visit neighbors watch the girls 
two cokes later a setting sun prepares me to begin 
thank god it will be dark soon 

BE A FISHERMAN 
Cloudy this morning sun red hot above the masts 
a net planted in the night awaits attention 
a boy and dog in small canoe approach cautiously 
hand over hand nothing    
but then a fish so small it's thrown to the sea 
Woof! Woof! "There goes my breakfast." 
more netting more nothing 
til another small fish it too released 
the dog barks disapproval 
soon the last inch of net retrieved
empty nada nothing 
silently the canoe returns to shore 
Woof! Woof! 
"Nets are for lazy people. 
Now be a fisherman!"

WE LAUGH 
A sunset bright orange 
no green flash tonight 
just three girls 
appearing from behind 
a wave speaking Spanish 
we laugh 
over school 
over the sea 
under the stars 
today was lazy 
hammock heaven
why move 
a twelve year old a mother
 sells me peanuts  
others offer drinks 
others offer clothes 
some offer piggy banks 
for sanddollars 
discovered in abundance 

TO BE WET
 a hawk dives 
retrieves a fish 
sand dollars frolic 
beneath my feet 
crabs scurry 
in and out of holes
no-see-ums are seen 
their presence felt 
more waves come
one after another 
until I'm driven 
to be wet 

DOGS 
Dogs everywhere a pack
running up and down
the beach 
all pissing 
on the same spot 
on the same net 
open territory   
one rolling in urine 
yelps his delight
his feet a silhouette 
against a setting sun 
galloping past 
another hordes 
his dinner
beach-baked fish 
on the street 
another snout explores 
abandon orange peels 
a gangly chicken 
saunters curiously close 
unafraid of vegan canines

THE RECEPTION 
A wedding reception 
open to the village 
to me to you 
shotguns at the gate 
insure a good time 
the music is live 
loud happy 
the dance a three step

Inside firm thighs 
caress a bottle 
to the beat
outside men prepare 
for little sleep tonight

BEACH VENDORS 
they sell everything 
filling each moment 
punctuating every thought 
I hide in my book 
I think invisible 
I see you señor 
there is no escape
they are relentless

You want 
peanuts carvings singing 
You like which postcard 
buen precio para ti 
mi amigo
never asked just once
nor twice our friendship
blossoms like vendors on the vine 
it's work for twelve year olds 
their babies content 
listening learning 
suckle loudly 
drowning out my smile 
and my no

CARMEL WARRIOR 
why did I stop 
retrace my steps 
cross the street 
to an alley of shops 
my armour clanging 
through your door 
to clarify my vision 
to clarify yours 
such energy 
I sensed its safety 
though fearful 
of the moment 
of the risk 
of warriors 
a partnership 
a common path support 
for the journey just ahead

TRAIN RIDE 
The old train stops everywhere 
for children selling food and gum 
the car is packed 
full of smoke 
of babies crying 
lights illuminate the dark 
some sleep others cough 
wrapped in blankets 
children talk and giggle 
the mountain air is cold 
another stop no people 
pausing only for a weary engine


EVER 
I miss my new friends 
surrounded by market noise 
by strange music 
shirt twirled high 
an old man dances 
and sommersaults 
for children 
so fluid his rythmn 
I understand what I see 
will I know what I hear
ever

THE JUNCTION 
Dropped off a crossroad
the junction to San Blas 
thirsty my head pounding 
a man speaks Spanish 
no bus for hours 
we flap our arms 
a pickup stops 
we climb aboard 
we hold on 
tightly 
my hair whips 
my eyes tear 
we blur by bananas 
a car curving in slow motion 
this is not adventure 
this is dangerous
it's over 
I'm alive I dismount 
hot head still throbbing 
hotels at dusk are hard to find 
a six year old quides me
to a resting place

HUNGRY 
Hungry I visit the market 
now closed and silent 
except for one a restaurant 
its emptiness beckons 
what would you like? 
music is played 
we have only beans 
a man dances 
others gather to my table 
lovers kiss we applaud 
soon laughter fills San Blas 

JUNGLE BOAT 
Up at 5:30 before the dawn 
a boat trip through the jungle 
crocodiles fish and birds await 
the day begins with turtles 
and smelly plants 
we are quiet looking for clues 
soon anticipation wains 
no wildlife only the reflections 
of other boats from other times
when creatures were abundant

HOT BODY 
The sun heats my body 
I swim to quench the fire 
the water warm cools little 
indigenous surround me 
mirroring gods colorful and bright 
exhausted a baby cries then smiles 
humid sticky days bind our thoughts 
in sweat sleepiness and visions 

WAKE UP TIME
Kitchen noises illuminate my dreams 
someone pukes away the night 
a fan swirls clothes are washed 
sleep is impossible 
on this trip for waking up

TWO MEN DANCING 
Two men dancing cross the square 
full moon their guide so sweet the air 
and neither knows the other's there 

One is drunk his path unclear 
the other born his twisted peer 
across the plaza each draws near 
they pass opposed abstaining fear 

Trees cropped squared a new years sight 
the evening light so full and bright 
our 2 men greet and dance the night

NEW FRIENDS 
A lazy day 
the breeze so gentle 
it cools little 
hammocked and quiet 
I listen to the ocean 
such color

future vendors visit 
I practise my Spanish 
no gracias 
no gracias 
I share my food 
I steal a glance 
100 new friends 
coming my way

TAXI 
A taxi a collectivo 
a VW bus hard seats 
no amenities no shocks 
the driver spits 
to an open window 
his arm is damp 
he sprays again pedal to the floor 
his shirt is wet 
people get on 
people get off 
they know where they are going 
I will know when I get there

PARADISO 
Ten k's of dirt track the midday sun afire 
our driver cools his heat chugging a Corona 
beached we follow his finger a new friend 
pointing toward the days first meal 
past the putting green of aristocracy 
past sand dunes and abandoned homes 

we walk the ocean sinking softly 
each step heavy our packs bulging 
with things frivolous non-essential 

Suddenly the waters unfold 
big fish cruise the shallows 
a fishermen's dream my stomach growls 
penquins and fingerlings flee the advance 
tails flap the beach explodes with fish 
soon we will feast swing in hammocks 
enlivened by a gentle sea breeze

Ahead lies shade for resting a place to swim
a palapa appears a lagoon
paradiso 
the earth quakes our arrival welcome 
tonight we will sleep well 

DID WE GO 
Two dogs fuck others tongue the air 
scorpion guards circle the toilet 
I bucket a shower from the well 
my senses sharpen aromas tease 
a fish fried and garlic-laden swims in rice 
it greets my plate then my palate
my tutor yawns a spanish sun sets 
the wind stirs the sea stars are in abundance 
a glorious day ends still I wonder 
did we go to war in other sandy places?

AN INTUITIVE RESPONSE 
Up early to venture South 
a hitched ride to a right turn 
yet his story draws me left 
back from where I'd come 
an intuitive response 
to Lazaro and turtles

The day passes quickly 
bananas on the open road 
to a bus stop that doesn't 
a man shrugs patience 
and vanishes in the jungle 
alone at dusk above a river 
doubting my direction myself 
I turn around hopelessly lost

an approaching car swerves 
interpreting my thoughts 
and stops
resume your path come with us 
to a dirt road unmarked
to turtle camp and new friends 
no more bumpy roads today 

REST AND BATHE 
A spring to wash away the winter 
year after year cool and cleansing 
fish breathe and play the pools 
women pound familiar rocks 
only the clothes and voices change 
a slight breeze a fly explores the reeds 
oh the stories that old tree could tell 
I'm tired from turtle patrols collecting eggs 
the stillness soothes my aching body 
I rest and bathe restore my energy 
tonight we midwifes need a watchful spirit

I AM MIDWIFE 
Overwhelmed with joy 
I am midwife guardian a friend 
to turtle spirit leather back 
my planetary partner 
each of us the other 
we share our tears at midnight 
a grand performance scripting the future 
extinction is not their choice 
will it be ours? 

LEATHER BACK 
Black against the sand 
a leather back is lifted ashore 
to track a nest
one flipper digs 
the other widens 
deep as her reach 
quietly she lays 
muscles tense then release 
It's time to mask her work 
retrace her path 
return home return to sea

MY BIRTHDAY 
My birthday renewal of self 
a perfect day and present 
a gift, this living life fully 
a chance to roam intuitively 
to celebrate with joy 

Happy Birthday To You 
I smile a coincidence or plan 
from this radio this moment 
in a foreign tonque 

And on the beach my party
an Englishman juggles 
a French woman speaks Spanish 
a child applauds 

my youthfulness is intact 
I am lucky to be so enlivened 
happy birthday Señor Kent 

EVER 
Church for sunday my humanity revealed 
a cry for love and closeness phones me home 
a solidary warrior seeks renewal 
from poisoned bread 
an orange dilutes its bitterness 
small comfort should I die 
bus fumes spray the air 
another truck found dead 
young guns police the wrecks

vendors syrup sidewalks 
everything for sale flies are free 
streets of dust confuse my path 
watered down by women
leaking buckets broken pipes 
christmas lites blind me for attention 
pigs snort the earth 
tortillas hide themselves well 
roosters confused by night 
doodle at the moon 

will I ever find my way back home 
through this maze of noise and smells 
drugged by present moments 
trusting primal visions 
as I live my meditation 
and do I want to return 
ever 

DRAGON IN MY PATH 
Toothless like a shadow 
dark and stalking 
What do I fear 
his red shirt and hat 
lurking close
alone and lonely 
harder to avoid 
but I do my best 
fearful and repulsed 
I must reach deeper much deeper 
to find love compassion 
for this dragon 
persistant in my path 

BED TO BEACH 
Chirping geckos early shadows 
one step from bed to beach 
a full moon lingers the sun rises 
fishermen launch their day 
they struggle with their boats 
palms windmill hypnotizing waves 
that curl crashing on the sand

PREJUDICE 
The room smells dark he is easy to find 
drunk in his cantina though not alone 
staggering up he screams his hatred 
Americans are whores grabbing a bottle
I sense the danger
I speak in German  
heil hitler german man are you one too 
I visualize my pain I am frightened 
I concede his turf angry and confused 
I cry out for understanding  for balance 
yes my prejudice surfaced for Mexicans 
drunk with words and a single handshake

STRANGE 
Max and I find a new beach 
Puerto Arista muy tranquilo 
no naked breasts to distract 
no loud music to ignore 
Just sea noise and a gentle breeze 
few tourists here the last good beach 
the land green with distant mountains 
fertile soil billowing clouds 
strange Oregon seems close today
here on the border with Guatemala

A CORNER ROOM 
A corner room a moon to view 
quaint and clean a shower 
a week of beach washes away 
real hot water I am ready for dreams 
Kent welcome roar-beep-chug 
every bus every auto drifts by my window 
mufflerless reverberations rattle my bed
all night the greeters come so creative 
I wearily applaud no relief no sleep 
thankful for the dawn I flee the city 
savoring fumes on a bus ride to the border

TODAY'S VERSE 
Guatemalan sunset 
black sands and pier 
a launch is lifted two men and gear 
a shift of weight the constant fear 
while eight men crank Its fate so near 
the sun is orange it's sinking fast 
the bus today was not my last 
packed bus hot sun now both are gone 
the fish the boat it won't be long 
tomorrows verse to continue my song


YEARNING 
Nameless streets 
at night so dark 
dust marks the track 
hotel to park 
vendors shadowless 
offer me wares 
too black to see 
too tired to care 
aimless path 
the shrimp superb 
I yearn for more 
companionship that is

BUS RIDE TO XELA 
The land the sea and me 
fish jump fruit grows well 
I sweat 
pop 
change is eminent 
pop again
 my ears clear 
matching rhymns of the road 
narrow winding 
steep and windy 
the river flows below us 
refreshment for a thirsty bus 
our guide 
climbing to the peaks 
clouds swirling 
terraced landscape abound 
Xela is our goal

 ALMOLONGA BATHES 
I wait for my bath 
hot and inviting release 
liquid minerals from the mountains 
thirty people line the hall 
enlivening the dampness 
colorful village dress dialect 
a narrow beam of light 
a chill is in the air 
it finds me reminds me
be patient
a warm bath will soon heal 
your body 
your spirit 
The temperature is perfect 
I feel sleepy 
my muscles relax 
my hour is finished 
I dress for the bus ride
and cold night air

QUESTIONS 
What does it cost 
I earn .50c an hour 
you must be rich 
I work on a ranch 
what time is it 
do you speak Spanish 
can you teach me English 
where is your village 
many dying in your war 
do you like Guatemala 
I was born her 
how many children 
I have five 
just passing through 
may your journey go well

SPANISH BREAKDOWN 
where did you come from 
How did you know 
you knew when you saw me 
you knew I would blow 
so filled up with spanish 
my mind would be next 
frustrated unhappy 
no progress my best 
but you heard me 
you calmed me 
I'd been put to the test 
it's a wonder that warriors 
ever can rest

EMOTIONS 
Tickling my ears 
spanish words and phrases 
jumbled lines a foreign tongue 
emotions peaked and poised 
awakened they erupt 
a crescendo of volcanoes 
the dragon cornered snarls 
subdued with hot words 
removing the chill 
my fear of seperation 
from other warriors here 
and in other sacred places 

HOME 
I was someplace else 
than where I was 
I was Home 
in these mountains of Guatemala
I felt connected 
to the earth 
to Oregon 
I knew at that moment 
the warrior would return 

DONKEY DAYS 
A burrow leading 
three men with firewood 
moved slowly 
on a rocky path with secrets 
its hard being a donkey all day 
he was going home 
he was hungry 
the trio followed close behind 
they were hungry 
they were tired 
they were laughing 
life ain't easy but it can be joyous

THE BEST OF NAHUALA 
Nahuala a village older than its fruit trees 
a self-contained town with radio station 
broadcasting customs of the day 
every inch of land a farm 
producing sustinence for families 
on hills to steep for grazing 
churches everywhere compete for souls 
no signs or cars to mar their quest 
only cattle roam the street 
feeding on what's left 
there's a creek it carries water 
cleansing water washing clothes 
water driving mill stones 
and irrigating crops 
old dogs and elders guard the past 
yet the future is persistant 
the song is new to worn ears 
young boys in love with music 
mend unraveled tape
strewn cross the land 
eroding culture 
can they save it 
and the best of Nahuala 

SPANISHED 
Three weeks of words 
like butterflies 
cacooned between my ears 
never quite knowing 
will they ever return 
or come when needed 
yes swooping up 
from the depths they ascend 
fluttering and confused 
it's the darkness they fear 
ah sweetly they're regrouping 
pausing in the light slowly in procession 
for the thought to comes out right





SHARING 
Years in waiting chills of night 
today drives out the darkness 
to celebrate the light 
each moment full of living 
the journey feels right 
though the emptiness still lingers 
for sharing all that's bright 

PIZZA'S ARE FOR EATING
He sits alone 
with a beer a book 
and pizza Panachel 
he eats slowly 
one piece then another 
close, by the door 
a dog invisible sits 
silently sniffing 
stalking the air 
waiting 
 a momentary flash
pizza man departs 
something urgent temporary 
the door is small for two 
quietly a slice warm and fragrant 
floats to the door 
chump it disappears 
a second flash
  pizza man returns 
it's a narrow door for two 
he notices the difference 
but logic must prevail 
he gobbles up the rest 
pizza's are for eating 
not for flying
pizza man knows that
I know that 
the dog knows that too 
offering a look of innocence 
our eyes meet 
the dog smiles brightly 
I smile back

THE WIND IS CIRCLING 
The wind it circles 
carrying our experiences 
a tornado uprooting foundations 
so secure your thoughts 
hold them dear 
the wind is circling 
collecting memories loosely planted 
seeds germinate best 
from lessons learned well

THE CAVE OF SAINT MARCOS 
Do you have a prayer 
why no words 
coming only to observe 
very passive this looking 
yet what could I say 
to his spiritual guide 
and theirs
My saints don't smoke
nor guzzle whiskey 
or channel my pain
to another full 
of celestial answers
only candles and incense
are familiar reminding me
of other paths 
to higher powers
that permeate
 this cliffside cave
and others 
next time I bring cigars
unanswered questions 
and an open mind 

ANYONE TO XELA 
Anyone to Xela 
Bus ride back 
jammed packed 
good morning officer 
everyone is seated 
it's the law 
he checks I count 
ten butts hug 
a row for four
enjoy the view
it's not your bus 
anyone to Xela

TEA PLEASE 
Breakfast in El Estor 
tea please 
an early request 
liquid boiled safe to drink 
my meal nearly finished 
he hits the dusty streets 
he has one wish to fulfill 
he has no tea 
where does he go 
who does he meet 
the minutes many pass 
the miles imagined 
through the jungle 
fording rivers 
my fork at rest
my patience to the test
  he returns mission accomplished 
with a solitary bag 
dangling by its string 
I am grateful 
the dangers overcome 
a client satisfied 
I order a second cup 

GOOD MORNING 
Honduras loves me 
hot and sweaty 
I open my door to the day
and a cool breeze 
inviting me to return to bed 
hola señor 
buenas dias señor 
my eyes are closed 
but their identity is known
another offers music
blaring tunes from the sixties 
  invading my dreams
I cough and cough 
now fully awake  
my room fills with smoke 
yesterdays garbage burning below
In one hour on the wings of a bird
I am gone 
It's so absurd 
angry laughing 
but I feel 
deeply today 
bitten by daily life
Honduras 

NEW FRIENDS 
Dinner tonight by lantern light 
chinese soup and tea 
discussing life aspirations 
to the beat of a moonsoon rain 
the bar empty a car garage 
we pay and leave 
three different cultures 
we share  we walk the park 
to coffee in rocking chairs 
and ponder our future 
our new connection

A CRY FOR LOVE 
Tranquil morning 
horses graze the flats 
people eager to depart 
boats and cargo ready 
crack  smack
It's just an oxyen 
dumb for hauling 
beat its face 
crack  make it smart 
smack  back up 
whack do what I think 
my tension builds to anger 
I want to scream 
I fear my interference 
more pain to the oxyen 
the young boy needs love 
his hostility overwhelms 
how do I help him see
the depth of his denial 
himself in the beast 

ENTER AT YOUR OWN RISK 
I opened up the door 
a little 
in four nights shared 
I learned this 
I can relinquish control 
being with someone can be lonely 
I am vulnerable 
I am learning patience 
I am growing strong

PREYING THIEVES 
a holy day, a street dance 
push 1 2 3  he's smooth clever 
such inate rhythm 
catch the beat watch the cripple 
pickpocket me  
his daily performance in the market 

a breakfast show 
one to admire 
his subtle moves 
sleight of hand 
so early in the morning 
with tricks that please 
that capture your attention 

expensive theatre
full of intrique 
demanding my participation 
invited again I might refuse

I felt nothing 
I sensed everything 
yet to a victim like me 
everyone's a partner 
Shall we dance 

Yes, he was quick 
It could have been a she 
a team player maybe three 
liberating me completely 
to the day 
to the moment 
of my cash 

There was no applause 
from the locksmith 
from the vendors 
from passersbye 
there should have been 

BERNARD & SAN JOSE 
Bernardo left today 
loving so freely 
sexing it up in San Jose
brooding hens will wait 
for the young rooster's return

Yes we love him 
to tease him 
such energy and spirit 
I miss him 
the void is deep 
not easily filled 

For me a younger brother 
a trusting friend 
an adopted son 
a fellow traveler 

Many faces Bernard 
but no masks 
honest and kind 
caring and curious 
our daily toast 
to a healthy life 
to a healthy planet 
to adventure 

WATCH FOR SALE 
Tired from the road
thirsty for a beer 
I sit sip and stare 
watch for sale watch for sale 
Japanese designed flat 
for rolling up 
for sticking in your sock 
for fighting times 
sold  
an anxious transaction 
see my new watch 
to the bar man 
nostriles deep 
in a boquet of straws 
you can roll it up 
stick it in your sock 

DRIPPING HEAT 
Dripping heat and soothing 
to my bones she flows 
energizing and revitalizing 
forgotten pleasures 
three months abstaining 
wanting yet excepting 
when there is none 

you survive 
you tense up
you scream 
momentary diversions 
cultural shockwaves 
reverberating draining 
a heartier spirit 
perhaps 

three months in waiting 
daily gasps of hope 
and then  
today 
nothing compares 
to her sweet juices 
torrid and steamy 
a source of life 
earth's blessing 
waking in a hot shower 

EVONE & PEDRO 
Six years in Manaqua 
teaching aristocrats 
It's time for home
from embassy parties 
English lessons 
and mannered children 
the car is packed 
full of western views 
ancient books and Pedro 

I'm sick of lazy people 
taking gifts and land 
living only for the moment 
that lack imagination 
that won't fix their cars 
intolerable character flaws 

Then why did you stay afar 
away from St. Louis 
in the midst of revolution 
from Nicaraguan people 
so aloof and seperate 
with your Mayan art 
and a barking dog 
out of control 
pissing in restaurants 
your hands and pockets overflow 
yet what do you offer
and the next time

SHOULD I 
I follow her body 
to buy ice cream 
for the sunset 
should I invite her 
to share it 
no 
why risk a great sunset

SPIRITUAL EXPLORATIONS
Tarot cards read for the first time 
my heart and mind receptive 
they challenge me 
for balance over chaos 
for clarity live intuitively 
for relationships 
healthful and quiltless 
full of integrity 
To San Simeon my first visitation 
can you assist 
accept my gifts bless my candles 
grant me my future 
such a contrast in prayer 
these paths with the same end 
all life flows fed by such streams 
rituals of participation 
hopefulness 
homage to certainty 
an interpretative struggle 
this staying open to the moment 
It ain't easy is it 

THE ROMANTIC 
Is she someone I know 
or are we to meet
I can hope for today 
though I feel complete 
what's missing is sharing 
an intimate treat 
a partner and caring 
we'll know when we greet 

GROTTO AT LAGO DE MONTEBELLO 
My guide of eight 
many paths I know 
pay what you like 
a pilgrimage to the grotto 

smiling present 
he chases a nut 
down a steep a muddy trail 
soccer practice for Miquel 
and for me the spectator 
following blindly 
deeper into the woods 
it's raining I'm alone 

See the bees they sting
see the mushrooms good with soup
see this crab....ouch 
local knowledge bound to please
he races on no time to linger 

a special place the grotto 
a river flowing through a mountain 
I pay what I like 
Miquel now monied content
 a job well done
still time for chasing fish 

MONEY 
Old money Guatemalan 
spent in new ways 
paper money historic designed 
torn taped tatered 
witness to a 1000 hands 
well used abused 
hidden squandered 
money to be changed 
for other money 
money making a living 
traveling 
sightseeing
crossing borders 
money of color 
easy to look at 
money with purpose 
a home a personality 
different from other money 
money making money 
making people happy 
making people sad 
making people sick 
old money new money 
it's the same 

DO IT OFTEN 
Once a month is fine 
if you don't like it 
but if you do 
do it often 
try a starlite night 
naked covered with sand 
it empties your head 
it energizes 
it rejuvenates your commitments

ECLIPSE 
a single star bright 
birds a flock flying frightened 
awake escape midday 
the sunset the confusion 
the dawning of the night 
the jaquar too blinks surprise 
it stretches 
a nocturnal clock amoke  
click click click 

pinhole cameras blazing 
jungle leaves partially decayed 
photograph and sequence 
the unseen the unfiltered 
this birthing an early moon 
full and black 
a portrait in negative space 
highly contrasted edgelite 
designed processed four minutes

an eiry light fire flies 
enveloping the exhileration 
the applause illuminated 
a momentary visitation 
shadow time defined 

a streak accross the earth 
one-sixty miles wide 
total complete 
encircled by clouds
 thick stacked 
a revolving window 
a door beckoning 
witness history 
predicted by Mayan gods 
here in Mexico 
eclipse

WATER AND FIRE 
water and fire 
each opposed 
fire's rage water's flood 
so distinct seperate 
wanting closeness 
wanting acceptance 
wanting we are 

fire and water
polarized threatening 
the rain's collect 
the embers ignite 
preparation 
for our special time together 

WORDS 
Words who knows the most 
discussed argued agree please
words angry over facts unknown 
indians need Spanish learn it
and we'll put down our guns 
ignorance arrogance 
words that disagree 
responding words 
communist anti-words 
harsh words distortions 
a sharp mind twisting words 
heated exchanges 
coldly overwhelmed with words 
diminishing persuasion 
personal power 
right or wrong words 
evil needing good words 
competiting words 
choices of perception
are there any truths
 words 
our existence 
checks against the other's words 
serious words 
provoking serious questions 
and for some 
endless suffering 
over words 

NEEDS 
Needs we have 
to own our pain 
direct our anger 
at the source 
forgiving 
them
 ourselves 
letting go goodbye 
moving forward 
healing healthier happier

WHY IS IT 
Why is it 
so strongly attracted to blond women 
thin and powerful this woman near 
crossing her boundaries 
 cultural presumptions 
I want 
to know her 
in jeans jewelry laughing 
candle light dances on her face 
she's a giving person 
coins to the young boy 
love to the caribe man 
and to me a nervous glance 
at her watch her drink 
our eyes greet 
so brief our evening 
yet he's jealous of our time together 
I should leave 
the heat of my smile
will warm her deeply 
and
Oh God she smokes 

MY BOOK 
Early morning light 
strike 
books shelved high 
directing my grasp 
to one in waiting 
my book 
laid open 
thoughtfully pondered 
revealing pages 
I discover today 
yes more ink 
more adventure

FATHER FIGURES 
Seven months of new friends 
young as Aerin 
together tasting each moment 
a full menu drives us 
brings us to this road 
some older than my years 
all craving validation 
experience some a father 
that's me surrogate dad 
sharing myself yesterdays 
an easy role the older friend 
confidante and playmate

SEE A MOVIE 
When language overwhelms 
my reality I see a movie 
check out lights off 
adventure escape 
solidify dreams values 
feel deeply action sex 
experience beauty violence 
my drug of choice 
a momentary reprieve 
from cultural coping 
cheap travel 
popcorn and true love 
check in lights on 
to a filled room 
Spanish spoken 
no subtitles here 
my reality my movie 
no charge

HOT & SWEATY 
Seeing a movie Mexico made 
people talking Spanish chatter 
quiet please yet more distractions 
fracturing my translation 
the temperature rises 
anger begins to boil
like for the boy 
opening the window 
on a speeding bus 
blowing cold air
Please close it 
Please close it 
Please close it 
power to the mother 
no compromising her son 
I move 
wishing for decapitation 
his head to a passing truck 
me covered with blood 
laughing puking
yet today here 
watching a movie 
Mexico made
relax enjoy the script 
the jabber

LUCIANA 
Small room blue 
cooled by the heat 
why did we meet 
greeting on the water 
like fish gasping at the sunset 
and where do we go 
a bus waits another missed 
a blossoming of friendship 

PONDERING MY FUTURE
A school of young boys 
swim the shallows 
warm blue transparent waves 
well-up crash frothy white 
hammocked for the sunset 
I voyeur guzzling a coke 
a wheel chair a wet ride
beached deep in surf  
 he speculates his odds 
low tide or high tide 
future sunsets 







I ponder my future too
Portland seven days away 
 old friends work other sunsets
 questions hungry for answers 
escort me to my room 
an adobe box
 an oven of mud   
I shower dripping heat
two scorpions observe 
my nakedness 
my stage fright 
while a fan 
cools and dries me 
I dress for the street 
I join the night
still pondering my future

TOURIST TOWNS
Tourist towns 
flying in flying out 
great clothes sunsets 
all you can buy 
new friends kickback 
time on the beach 
no problem speak English 
go on try the ice
sip a margarita 
your once in a lifetime 
live rich credits good 
enjoy the comfort 
a package deal 
three days 
you deserve it 
you'll talk about it 
for months 
for years 
all depends on the ice  

THE DAY I LEFT 
The day I left 
it was raining 
a pickup truck to the border 
music blaring forests green
I was in love 
with her volcanoes towering and powerful 
with her people courageous and friendly 
with her corn her coffee fields 
green terraced to the sky 
with her buses packed 
moving slowly through her hills 
with her jungles hot and humid 
past her cows not budging 
feeding in her roads 
with her colors richly patterned 
with her workers and machetes 
to leave a place 
that touches you changes you
you must return 
 Guatemala 

BUS STOP 
Bus stop 
waiting anticipating 
the next adventure 
I board grab a sit 
breathe deep the miles 
time with new friends locals 
for eating buying bikes 
we stop often 
we piss away the miles 
we change drivers 
stored like luggage 
who slaps the tires 
hits them good
one bus stop after another
to my destination  
new beginnings end of journey 
bus stop

FACTORY FARMS 
Busing Los Mochis to Mexicali 
you see them you smell them 
factory farms crowds of cows 
hundreds thousands 
gathered in a barren landscape 
sickly food soaking the earth 
saturating the air
suffocating passersbye 
with urine and pending death 

COFFEE AT THE GRAND HOTEL 
Nervously I watch the light 
dim my vision obscure reality 
such heartfelt tension in the presence of women 
the possibility that she is near 
my passion never diminishes 
 a woman soulful 
close at hand yet out of reach 
curious like me 
yet fearing that response 
the one causing us to reel 
block our vision the future 
it's a special risk we take 
an invasion of our senses 
dripping writhing wet 
the image burns deep 
I'm on fire it's the heat 
she could cool me
or her
this very moment 
enduring yearning 
secretions of the mind 
its mist shrouding 
 my every thought 
in muscles tensed and ready 
The flute player knows 
the waiter knows 
her friend knows too 
now they laugh and plan 
our meeting our fantasy 
shared in soft light a warm night 
we smile at each other  
she's nervous she's not alone 
I breathe deep 
my hands are damp 
unable to contain my hopefullness 
she's turning red awakened 
to the possibility 
I invite myself we stir the drinks 
music is played 
circumventing what we think 
we talk Spanish 
I my journey she listens 
nervously the end draws near 
her daughter beckons 
she must go she is right 
why allow these early words 
 to spoil our fantasy

CHEEKIES NIGHTMARE 
In the night a moan of fear 
I will not be accepted 
by Japanese people 
changed view the path uncertain 
our way is not being different 
answers come when least expected 
try to sleep rest here 
I don't like sex 
tonight I only offer acceptance 
and for you an abundance 
perhaps tommorrow 
yourself you will accept 

RE-ENTRY 
Seven months the journey 
to here the invisible line 
realities sharply contrasted 
abundant wealth fancy cars 
beautiful women over thirty 
music that moves the blues 
re-entry a border crossing 
click your heels together once 
languages meld 
heels together twice 
cultures blend 
heels click three 
a euphoric transition 
and I'm home

5/21/91  Costa Rica—These are my typical journal notes. 

Rained all day, visited Santa Rosa Natural Park. 
Took off shoes to wade through high water flooding the path. 
 Scorpions, huge frogs, and turtles amused and distracted 
as we slogged through the mud. 
soaking took a bus to San Jose 
clothes started to dry, then kid pisses on bus seat 
that drips onto my leg and boot. 
I was meant to be wet today 
got a rash from his urine. 

And the poem might develop into something like this:

MEANT TO BE WET TODAY 
Some days are wetter than others 
it comes at you from above 
torrential 
It comes at you from below 
it floods your path 
now deep with mud 
and rich with scorpions 
and mighty frogs 
and happy turtles 
that distract your wit 
and your bare feet 
from their journey 
to a bus stop 
on the way to San Jose 
clothes begin to dry 
but the weather 
relentless invades our bus
a young boy floods the seat 
urine trickles 
offered no resistance 
downward bound my leg 
to puddle in my boot 
a  rash develops
reminding me 
not to be pissed
I was meant to be wet today 




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